Travel Guide

Long branded as the destination for the older generation, I’m here to bust the myth that you have to be 50+ to fall in love with this island. In fact, hats off to the older gen who take on the epic hikes of Madeira. Many are not for the faint hearted. 

Before setting foot in/on Madeira I imagined tropical flowers scattered everywhere, dramatic lush landscapes, hikes to die for and wonderfully friendly people. 

I wasn’t wrong. But what I couldn’t have envisaged was just how out of this world stunning it would be. Every destination has its rough areas. Every destination that is except Madeira. We struggled to find a part of Madeira that didn’t have either a draw dropping view or some other  kind of phenomenal outstanding natural beauty. 

It’s diverse too. Dense tropical forests in one corner, sparser more enchanted ones the next, insane mountains covering the entire island, adorable levadas* trickling almost everywhere, impressive cliff faces, not to mention the hundreds of stunning waterfalls. Not only that, it’s also (quite) easy to get around to see it all with a hire car. The good news is the roads are very new and modern. The not so good news is, if you don’t enjoy hair pin bends, you might struggle with some of the inland roads. That aside, Madeira is undeniably stunning and should be top of the list for any traveller looking for outstanding natural beauty. 

* If you don’t know what a Levada is now, I promise you will by the time you leave Madeira. In summary, it is an irrigation channel or aqueduct, or as I like to think of it, a pretty guided stream. They serve as the pathway for many of Madeira’s best walks. 

When To Go

Our month of choice was the end of March and on the whole, it was a solid decision. We had days of pure uninterrupted warm sunshine and generally temperatures exceeded 20 degrees. Admittedly we also got caught in heavy downpours, froze at the top of the Pico Rico point and were nearly blown away on more than one occasion. However, as a wise person once said, there is no such thing as bad weather, only bad preparation (ie bring a rain jacket & jumper in addition to your bikini/trunks and you’ll be just fine). 

Another good time to go would be September or October when the tourists depart, but the good weather usually does not. 

Whenever you decide to visit, there is no escaping the fact that Madeira has many microclimates depending on the altitude. But on the flip side, this does mean it’s almost always sunny somewhere in Madeira.  

Where to Stay

Speaking of weather, I’m not sure this is scientifically proven but we did tend to find the best weather to be on the South side of the island (which if you are visiting outside of summer, may be a good hack to maximize your chances of getting sun). I’ve therefore focused my recommended accommodation list on this area: 

• Reid’s Palace, Funchal: If you are ready to splash the cash, Reid’s is a well renowned,  stunning hotel on the outskirts of Funchal and part of the Belmond Hotel group. Luxury traditional features at every turn, stunning cliff top views for romantic alfresco dinners, an outdoor swimming pool to die for, spa galore and much more. If in doubt, you know you are in the presence of true class when you are never more than 20 meters away from a grand piano. Moreover, you will have the benefit of having Funchal on your doorstep, making exploration of the town and its surrounding areas a doddle. If on the other hand, you don’t fancy the price tag of an overnight stay, opt for their famous afternoon tea on the fancy terrace instead. A great way to take advantage of the beautiful views & experience the exceptional service Reid’s has to offer (plus the scones are absolutely delicious). 
• Saccharum Savoy Collection, Calheta: We opted for the slightly lower budget option, but far from low standard at the beautiful Savoy hotel in Calheta. Nominated for Conde Nast Traveller’s Readers award 2024, the hotel sits in the beautiful location of Calheta, approx 45 mins drive west of Funchal. Quite literally carved into the lush green cliff, this hotel is surrounded by insane colourful flowers and overlooks the ocean from almost every angle. The architecture is arguably the most impressive thing about this hotel. Designed to blend with its natural surroundings, whilst offering clean lines and a modern but unique feel, we felt right at home spending time in the boho style rooftop bars/restaurants and/or admiring the ocean view from my all time favourite infinity pool. My only criticism of the hotel is they didn’t sell it well enough in the pictures. 
• Casas da Levada, Ponta do Pargo: Not the typical hotel type? Don’t worry, you will have plenty of unique stay options across Madeira. One in particular that caught my eye was Casas da Levada, a luxury sustainable agritourism concept accommodation on the West of the island. If you are after something more authentic and thrive in nature & tranquility, this place is for you. 6 unique villas, blended into their rural backdrop, inhabited with animals, organic gardens, an incredible infinity edge swimming pool and topped off with stunning views. Think locally sourced breakfast delivered outside your door, sipping on Madeira wine in the fairytale hobbit bar or simply kicking back in your gorgeous kitchen and living space after a long trek. What is more, from eco cleaning products & organic produce to solar panels & rainwater harvesting, ‘earth care’ is at the centre of Ponta do Pargo’s ethos. Although I haven’t tried and tested it myself, when I go back to Madeira, this will be top of my list. 

Hiking Highlights

It’s no secret that Madeira is a hotbed for some of the world’s most incredible hikes. But unless you plan to stay in Madeira indefinitely, you will likely need to narrow them down.  

Here are the best hikes we did and why we loved them: 

• The Iconic Pico Rico (PR1): Famed as the must do hike in Madeira, Pico Rico is the highest peak on the island and offers everything from stunning views across Madeira’s one of a kind terrain, unbelievable tunnels through natural rock formations, exposure to steep inclines & dramatic staircases between mountain points. Before I go any further, I should confess that we decided against the full 11km hike largely due to bad weather and instead went for the shorter route from PR1.2 (Verda do Pico Ruivo) ending at the peak of Pico Rico. This was around a 1.5 hour hike, instead of the 3-4 hours for the full hike. Albeit missing the tunnel & iconic staircases, this was still an absolutely beautiful hike with incredible vantage points either side of us. I’d love to say the end view was worth the walk, which I have no doubt it is assuming the clouds don’t cover it (as was the case for us). Even with the clouds though, the views we caught glimpses of along the way were completely out of this world. Remember this is the highest peak on the island and so naturally tends to be colder and can be clouider up there. So long as you pack appropriately, you will have an unforgettable experience regardless of whether you go full or partial hike. Verdict…it’s a must do whilst in Madeira. 
• Under the radar, Levada do Norte Ribeira Brava: One you might not find in every ‘must hike’ guide book, but for me at least, took first place as my favourite hike. If you’ve ever wondered what it would feel like to visit Jurassic park, I’d imagine this place would give you a pretty good idea. This hike offered a bit of everything…levada galore, views over the breathtaking coastline, magical forests, gaps through the trees revealing exceptional views over lushious mountains, charming villages nestled into the hills…the list goes on. Best yet, we barely saw another sole on this hike, with the exception of local villagers working on their well preserved farmland. Also, given its southerly position, it’s a milder option for those visiting during the cooler months. So if you are short on time in Madeira, this is a brilliant all rounder! 
• The alternative to the 25 waterfalls, Levada do Alecrim: Any google of ‘the best hikes in Madeira’ will likely yield many results for the 25 waterfalls hike. I have no doubt that this is an amazing option. However, I would encourage you to consider the nearby and lesser trodden Levada do Alecrim. You certainly won’t be short of waterfalls but the advantage is a less crowded, possibly even more beautiful levada walk covered in lush green, more stunning views and the waterfall of dreams to end it all. I read a couple of reviews beforehand which advocated that this walk was in fact better in several ways than its rival 25 waterfalls. It’s an easy point to point trail that lasts about 2.5 hours (there and back), so perfect if you don’t fancy a mammoth trek. 

All hikes are very accessible by car so if you can, my advice would be to rent a car. Alternatively, check with your hotel who should be able to help you with booking a tour transfer or taxi. 

What Else To Do

If you aren’t into walking, or maybe you need to rest up those calf muscles before the next big hike, you won’t struggle to find something else to do. My favourites: 

• Wandering around Funchal (the capital): Prior to visiting, I didn’t know what to expect from Funchal but I am pleased to say that it exceeded my expectations in almost every way. A picturesque town steeped in history, situated on the east coast of the island, surrounded by mountains. It has a relaxed but bustley vibe, perfect for roaming the streets in search of contemporary coffee shops, shopping in modern and/or local outlets, rummaging through enchanting markets or taking a seaside stroll. What more could you want? As mentioned earlier, top tip is take a visit to Reid’s Palace hotel and book yourself in for a glorious afternoon tea.  
• Monte Palace Tropical Garden, the happy accident: Easily confused with the Royal Botanical gardens (also accessible by cable car from Funchal), this garden is located on a different mountain but if you do make the error of boarding the wrong cable car (as we did), I promise you won’t be disappointed. Conde Nast voted it one of the most beautiful botanical gardens in the world and I for one am not going to disagree. If you like beautiful exotic birds (eg. Flamingos & peacocks), tropical flowers, views over the city & ocean and a dazzling mix of garden spaces, you will absolutely love it here. 
• The idyllic Sexial beach: Venture over to the north of the island to visit this wondrous naturally formed beach. Famed for its black sand and beautiful waterfall overlooking the luscious green cliff faces, it’s not hard to see why this is one of Madeira’s most loved locations. It’s not just pretty to look at either, whether you simply want to relax and sunbathe, or do something more adventurous, you’ll find a range of activities including kayaking, bodyboarding and even surf school. 

All in all, I couldn’t speak more highly of Madeira. It’s perfect for sun seekers, culture vultures, active travellers and come to think of it, every traveller in-between. My only regret is that we didn’t come earlier!